Just Blowin’ the Blues Dutch Pour

I fancied revisiting a technique I had used some time back, when I blew through a straw to create ‘flames’ in red-orange and yellow against a black background. We call this a dutch pour and it can be done with a hair dryer, straw and lungs, or anything that blows air really. It was really striking. I thought it would be a nice way to create some movement and flow in the paints, while also preserving some negative space in white around the edges. You just can’t easily get this sort of look with a dirty pour or a flip cup or any of the other acrylic pouring techniques.

The straw allows you a certain degree of precision when it comes to moving the paint. I started with a puddle pour in the center and layered up paints in cobalt blue, ultramarine blue, white, a metallic teal and a bright green I mixed myself from emerald green and chrome yellow. A circle of white around the outside gave me the negative space to blow into. See how I did it in the video below.

I think really I had too much color because I ended up with less white negative space than I had intended, but wow, I still love it! So much so that I’m planning a much bigger one, in fact, my biggest project yet – and just like this one. Look out for the video on that coming very soon.

Video shows how you can create cells in acrylic pouring and painting by blowing the paint. It also makes beautiful designs too.

As usual, check out the slideshow below for lots more pictures, both wet and dry, and close-ups of the details.


37 thoughts on “Just Blowin’ the Blues Dutch Pour”

  1. Dianne Zalewski

    I really enjoyed watching this video. You make it seem so easy to create something that is beautiful and unique. Thank you.

  2. I really loved this video; it’s inspired me to try your blowing technique. Blues and greens it is for my first shot!

  3. I didn’t see info on what you used on ceramic tiles to make them waterproof I clicked on the site but didn’t see it. LOVE your site

    1. Thanks Debby. Do you mean after the paint has been dried? I use the Polycrylic varnish – I wrote about it here. It will make them water resistant but still only in a decorative way, not for use as functional coasters or use in the dishwasher etc.

  4. Deby,
    I am soooo.. hooked on acrylic pouring. Flip cup, dirty pour, swipping, dipping, blowing, double flips, wrist flips you name it I’ve tried it. And I’ve only been doing this for two weeks!!! I work at Michael’s so I get a great deal on all my supplies. Even sale items get my discount! Whoo, whoo… My husband thinks I am some sort of mad scientist mixing, adding, pouring and stirring then oohing and ahhing. I have never been so energized by watching your videos and reading your comments and suggestions. Who wants to clean the house, cook or do errands when you can play with paint and create the most incredible surprises!!! Thanks so much for introducing me to this wonderful art form.

    1. Your husband is a keeper – even more discount = fabulous! Glad to hear you are feeling to inspired and full of energy.

    1. Thank you! Never thought of Amazon!! I will take a look at the article,I am determined to have a bash this weekend!!!!

  5. In the video you mention adding an oil and something else (besides water) to the paint. I couldn’t quite hear/understand that part.
    What oil and what else did you mix into the paint?
    These are beautiful. 🙂

    1. This is a very nice and i will try this. Thank you for sharing this with us.

      However I would like to know How much floetrol and silicone oil i need to mix with the paint?

    2. I mix the paints about 1 part floetrol, 2 parts paint, plus water as needed. Then about 1 -2 drops of oil per color, depending on how much I mixed.

    3. Christine Praschag

      I have tried to find a silicone oil in Austria but the one I have bought at amazon diddn’t work. I have no credit card and so I need to find an oil that I can pay in Euro. Could you help me, please. This technique is such amazing

  6. I didn’t see anything that said what you do to the tile for the paint to adhere. Also, can you use this technique on canvas?

    1. I didn’t need to do anything to the tile other than make sure it was clean and grease free, the paint sticks on there just fine. Once its sealed with a varnish, it stays on without any problems. And yes, you can do this technique on canvas just the same.

  7. Mª Dolores Márquez

    ¡¡¡Espectacular el resultado de su obra!!!

    Por favor podría decirme , si antes de verter el acrílico ha imprimido de blanco la baldosa con una capa de pintura para baldosa para que pueda fijarse bien sus pinturas o simplemente las pinturas que ha vertido se quedan adheridas y no se estropean.

    Le doy las gracias por el video y su respuesta

    1. Sólo tiene que asegurarse de que el azulejo está limpio y no grasa. Cuando esté completamente seco, selle con un barniz y la pintura permanecerá bien.

  8. Cecilia Marshall

    I have just started to play with this painting type. I’m really loving it, but have one question: how much paint should one use for a tile – tried to do one and when it dried, the paint cracked. I assume I used to much. Also my first 8×8 canvas also cracked. Did I pour to much paint on it.

    1. It could be that either the paint was left on the surface too thickly or that the paint was mixed too thickly or that it dried too quickly. Or maybe that your paints didn’t like your recipe. Very hard to say, as it can be a number of things. If you can drop into the Facebook group and share some pictures we might be able to diagnose better and offer suggestions.

  9. Marianna Cassir

    Hi Deby,
    I am so frustrated, I destroyed 20 small tiles with resin. They were to be coasters for an art show in October. I watched the instructions how to proceed. I mixed it for three min. I started with 5 tiles poured the resin but forgot to put a cup under the tiles. All off them were on top of a foil baking tray.
    All went well, so I did the rest off my tiles. Half I left outside with a box over them and the othe half inside. I only left the outside ones for about 2 hours. The temperature was below 20 c. I took them overnight inside. In the morning all of them had areas where the resin did not reach like little puddles. And off course they all stuck to the foil as well.
    Do I put resin over them again? Do I have to sand them or do I just throw them out and make new ones using using the Duplo colour clear coat acrylic enemal, and can I use that also on alcohol inks on tiles.?

    1. Sorry to hear about the missing spots where the resin did not stick. Had you used any form of oil in your paint? All of that has to be carefully cleaned off or the resin won’t stick to those areas. And yes it will stick the tile to the surface if you do not lift it up to dry and allow the excess to drip off. You should be able to pour again. Make sure to remove any oily residue first or the next coat won’t stick to those spots too. I’ve never used alcohol inks so I can’t personally vouch for using resin with those, sorry.

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